Alimentação no Rio de Janeiro no século XIX (1808-1831): uma análise comparada através das obras Viagem pitoresca e histórica ao Brasil e Notas sobre o Rio de Janeiro e partes meridionais do Brasil

Abstract

In 1808, the arrival of the Portuguese royal family in Brazil provoked significant changes, especially in Rio de Janeiro, which became the new capital of the monarchy and the most prominent urban center in the country. This dissertation analyzes representations of food and eating in this context between the early years of the 19th century (1808–1831), based on the travel accounts of European visitors John Luccock and Jean-Baptiste Debret. Positioned within a broader context of transformation brought about by the transfer of the Portuguese court, the opening of ports, and later the arrival of the French Artistic Mission, their testimonies reveal how food practices reflected cultural traditions, social identities, and urban dynamics of the time, many of which were influenced by European civilizing models. The research seeks to articulate the different experiences and perspectives of these travelers, highlighting the contrasts and points of convergence in their accounts. The central question of the study is to identify, describe, and interpret the influence of European elements on the food practices of the imperial capital's inhabitants, as represented in their narratives. Anchored in the perspective of Cultural History and grounded in the methodology of Comparative History, this investigation considers descriptions of foodstuffs, utensils, preparation methods, spaces of sale and consumption, and sociability practices present in both authors’ works.Luccock’s accounts, focused on daily life and commercial dynamics, contrast with Debret’s more artistic and sensitive perspective, which emphasizes cultural, social, and gastronomic expressions. Despite their differences, both offer complementary viewpoints on the cultural exchanges that shaped eating habits and the construction of sociability in the 19th-century urban environment, influenced by interactions among Indigenous peoples, enslaved Africans, and Europeans. The analysis of these records allows us to understand food as a fundamental category for interpreting the social, cultural, and identity transformations experienced by Brazilian society during the selected period. These changes are evidenced by the acclimatization of new plant and animal species, the appropriation and fusion of cooking methods, recipes, and consumption habits, as well as the introduction of culinary utensils and the emergence of new spaces for handling and trading foodstuffs. Regarding social changes, it was observed that food served as a tool of distinction, contributing to the reinforcement of social stratification. The study concludes that food, beyond its nutritional function, must be understood as a symbolic and social element, capable of expressing values, hierarchies, and historical processes.